Showing posts with label Sarah Burton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sarah Burton. Show all posts

Friday, October 7, 2011

0 Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Alexander McQueen


Wow.


Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Creative Director and Head Designer for Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, showed her latest offering for Spring/Summer 2012 at Paris Fashion Week and one word: Wow. It was as if the Ghost of "Lee" was right there! At first glance, it seemed "Bondage Inspired" (the face masks, the UBER tight corsetry) but in a way it wasn't. As Sarah Burton stated on the McQueen website "I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess - an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.”

It was exquisite and VERY McQueen.
The show began with suiting that was T-T-TIGHT. A very strong emphasis on the shoulder as well as the longer skirt length--below the knee (approx 26"-30" from the natural waist) and tiered ruffles at the hem of those skirts. The hips were exaggerated--especially in the Finale Gowns. You know that rule of "Don't put anything there that might make a woman's hips bigger". Sarah Burton doesn't give a DAMN!

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

The brocade and jacquard-like prints were stunning--and done in suitings with ruffled peplums as well as Baby Doll Dresses so romantic and so NOT Bondage.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Every single garment was almost Museum-worthy.
I doubt that most of these will even make it to your local McQueen boutique (I'll be very surprised if any of these do--maybe the suitings and "toned-down" version of the dresses). But who cares; I can't wait for the next Alexander McQueen Exhibition to see these up close and personal! I'm sure, though--that a lot of the gowns and dresses will make the Red Carpet for sure! Speaking of Red Carpet, lots of lace, impeccable applique, embroidery and high-low gowns (Sorry Miss Kelly Osborne! I know how much she HATES those "Mullet Dresses" on her show Fashion Police--I LOVE them!!!)

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Besides the "Homage to the Exaggeration of Women" and Bondage sub-theme, the entire show was also based on the Ocean, underwater, and creatures whom live beneath. These were Underwater GODDESSES. The coral-embroidered Baby Dolls and gowns were stupendous.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

And the Finale Gowns were armored sequined and metallic Bondage-meets-Oceania Empresses.
I hope Alexander McQueen was smiling from up there! Well done Sarah Burton. It shook me just a little bit...and I like that!

Click Below for the Full Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:




Friday, April 29, 2011

0 THE WEDDING DRESS: Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge wears Sara Burton Alexander McQueen Wedding Gown


The Best Kept Secret Is Revealed...


Earlier today, Catherine Middleton became Duchess of Cambridge as well as a Princess when she married Prince William at Westminster Abbey in THE WEDDING of the Century!!! Of course, even though I was filming all day doing a "secret" project, and came home at 11PM, I stayed up until 4AM (that's when my body--and eyes--gave out) to watch it LIVE. There was no other way! As everyone else who was watching, I was waiting to see THE DRESS! And finally, the best kept secret in the World was revealed:
Miss Catherine Middleton’s--now Duchess of Cambridge--Wedding Dress was designed by Sarah Burton, Head Designer for the House of Alexander McQueen.What a coup for her and the British House of McQueen!

I ABSOLUTELY LOVED IT! It was elegant, classic, very 1950's with a strong nod to Grace Kelly's Helen Rose-designed gown when she wed Prince Rainer of Monaco.

Here are the notes from the Official Press Release:

Miss Middleton chose British brand Alexander McQueen for the beauty of its craftsmanship and its respect for traditional workmanship and the technical construction of clothing. Miss Middleton wished for her dress to combine tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterizes Alexander McQueen’s work. Miss Middleton worked closely with Sarah Burton in formulating the design of her dress.

The dress epitomizes timeless British craftsmanship by drawing together talented and skilled workmanship from across the United Kingdom . The dress design pays tribute to the Arts and Crafts tradition, which advocated truth to materials and traditional craftsmanship using simple forms and often Romantic styles of decoration. Ms Burton’s design draws on this heritage, additionally giving the cut and the intricate embellishment a distinctive, contemporary and feminine character.

The Veil: Made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers, which was embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework. The veil is held in place by a Cartier Halo Tiara, lent to Miss Middleton by The Queen.

TIARA DISH: The Halo Tiara was made by Cartier in 1936 and was purchased by The Duke of York (later King George VI) for his Duchess (later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother-seen above) three weeks before he succeeded his brother as King. The tiara was presented to Princess Elizabeth (now The Queen) by her mother on the occasion of her 18th birthday.

THE GOWN: Hand-cut English lace and French Chantilly lace was used throughout the bodice and skirt, as well as the underskirt trim. With laces coming from different sources, much care was taken to ensure that each flower was the same color. The whole process was overseen and put together by hand by Ms Burton and her team.

The dress is made with ivory and white satin gazar. The skirt echoes an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats. The train measures two meters 70 centimeters (about 110 inches) from the waist. The ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry and is a hallmark of Alexander McQueen’s designs. The back is finished with 58 gazar and organza covered buttons fastened by Rouleau loops. The underskirt is made of silk tulle trimmed with Cluny lace.

It seems to be a tradition for Royal Wedding Gowns to include TONS of lace, whether in the veil--or somewhere in the gown. It's very "Royal Mantilla-esque". I loved how exquisitely fitted the gown was (surprised how she could breath in that corset) but then the skirt section had a "hint" of a Ball Gown but not too "Disney Princess" like. She looked Picture Perfect!! Everyone expected her to go more fitted or closer to the body, choosing softer more "liquid" fabrications (Kate loves a draped jersey dress as we know!) but for this--her Royal Wedding--she went for a more structured, architectural almost--gown in a stiffer fabrications. But yet, it wasn't overwhelming and "Princess Diana-over-the-top" grand.

Her sister's, Philippa Middleton, dress was also designed and created by Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen. It is of a heavy, ivory satin-based crepe, with a cowl front and with the same button detail and lace trims as the Bride’s dress.

And was clearly inspired by this dress from the Alexander McQueen Fall 2009 Collection.

William and Harry, Dashing in Uniforms: Prince William wore a Scarlet Irish Guard Uniform to signify his honorary rank in the Irish Guards. Prince Harry--the Best Man--wore the uniform of the Captain of the Household Cavalry featured aiguillettes (ornamental braided cord), a cross-belt, and gold waist belt with sword slings--bot no sword, thank you very much!

The Pages and Bridesmaids:

The Page Boys wore uniforms combining a Guards’ Red Tunic with gold piping, featuring Irish shamrocks on the collars and buttons arranged in fours, denoting the Irish – or Fourth – Regiment of Foot Guards. The buttons feature the Harp of Ireland surmounted by the Crown Imperial. The breeches are ivory and are worn with white stockings and black buckle shoes. SOOO cute!!!

The Bridesmaids’ dresses were created using the same fabrics as the Bride’s dress (silk satin gazar). The ballerina-length, full, box pleated skirt gives the dresses a sculptural quality. They have all been hand-finished with delicate English Cluny lace, which is visible under the skirts, and FOUR layers of netting/tulle underskirt (to make the skirt stand out). The puff sleeves and neckline are trimmed with the same English lace as the Bride’s underskirt. The backs have been finished with the same button detail. As a special memento, the Bridesmaid’s name and the date of the wedding have been hand-embroidered onto the lining of each dress.

What an amazing display of Pageantry! Not a single missed step! Congrats to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge!

Thursday, January 20, 2011

0 Michelle Obama Wears McQueen at White House State Dinner Honoring Chinese President: Fab Or Not? I think AMAZING!


First Lady In Red...
President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama, in Alexander McQueen Resort 2011, State Dinner for Chinese Presdient

Last night was the White House State Dinner in Honor of the President of the People's Republic of China. The First Lady, Michelle Obama stunned the audience--and me sitting inn my living room 2700 miles away--by wearing a STUNNING red printed silk organza STATEMENT-making Alexander McQueen Resort 2011 gown. Tell me when was the last time you saw a US First Lady so chic, modern and wearing such a directional gown for a State Dinner...and it wasn't one of the First Lady "usual Fashion Designer subjects" such as Oscar de la Renta (First Lady Laura Bush's Fave).

Making an Entrance: Alexander McQueen Resort 2011

But we have come to know that Michelle Obama is definitely NOT going to follow the First Lady "Fashion Rules" set before her by other First Ladies. And I for one, LOVE that!
The gown--which features an asymmetrical neckline and folded architectural draping--was designed by the House's Creative Director, the late Alexander McQueen's successor (following his tragic and untimely death), Sarah Burton. The choice of color, I'm sure was a nod to China, in that it signifies happiness and prosperity.

Fashion Diva: US First Lady Michelle Obama last night at State Dinner for Chinese President

I think she looked AMAZING--so chic! Move over Carla Bruni, Queen Rania, Sheikha Mozah of Qatar...there's another woman in town! Now, in comparing the top photo, of Mrs. Obama wearing the gown--and the one from the McQueen Look Book, the gown was altered for the First Lady: Originally, it featured puffy sleeves and as we can see, these became wide straps on Mrs. Obama. Also, look closely at the hem--there seems to be an "addition" of about 2 inches:
It looks like a band of satin fabric was added to compensate for the First Lady's statuesque height (see above close-up). It doesn't look as if that same band is in the original gown. First Ladies aren't allowed to "borrow" dresses like many A-List actresses so possibly after the gown was purchased and/or ordered from her favorite boutique (Ikram), it still needed a little extra length. I may be wrong (and I'm sure my readers will let me know!) but if I'm not, it's very interesting...

Sunday, August 29, 2010

0 62nd Annual Primetime Emmy Awards: Who Wore What? Anna Paquin in Alexander McQueen


Anna Paquin looks very Spartan Queen/Toreador in this black (a color trend for the Emmys 2010) and gold Alexander McQueen Resort 2011. The gown--designed by Sarah Burton, who took over as Creative Director after the designer's untimely death--features a high-low shape, long train and gold Bullfighter Epaulets-and-Bust Detail suggesting a Toreador's Bolero. I like her clean, up-swept hairstyle and her bangles. The shoes--well, I wished she would have worn the ones in the McQueen Resort 2011 Look Book on the right.

Anna is a "Fashion Girl" and this dress will definitely keep everyone talkin'!!
 
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